K-beauty has moved from niche interest to mainstream shelf space in the UK, and few brands have driven that shift as visibly as Beauty of Joseon. Its rise offers a useful case study in what actually sets Korean skincare apart from conventional Western formulations, namely the use of hanbang, traditional Korean herbal medicine, reworked through modern cosmetic science. This guide explains the philosophy behind the approach, the ingredients that define it, and how to build a routine around it sensibly.
What is hanbang, and why does it matter for skincare?
Hanbang refers to traditional Korean medicine, a herbal tradition based on balancing the body through medicinal plants, going back centuries. Beauty of Joseon draws its ingredient list directly from the Gyuhap Chongseo, a historical text compiled for women of the Joseon Dynasty covering beauty and self-care. Rather than treating this as a marketing story layered onto a conventional formula, the brand builds its entire catalogue from a fixed set of eight botanical ingredients: rice, ginseng, red bean, mugwort, green plum, honey and propolis, green tea, and Centella asiatica.
The key ingredients, explained
| Ingredient | Traditional use | What modern research suggests |
|---|---|---|
| Ginseng | Used for centuries to revitalise and support circulation | Rich in antioxidant saponins linked to collagen support; research is still relatively early stage for topical use |
| Rice bran water | A Joseon-era staple for brightening and softening skin | Reasonably well studied; associated with hydration and mild brightening effects |
| Propolis | Valued for purifying and calming properties | Has peer-reviewed literature behind it, largely from wound-healing and antimicrobial research |
| Centella asiatica | Traditional soothing herb | Among the best-characterised of hanbang ingredients for calming irritated skin |
| Mugwort and green tea | Traditional calming and antioxidant herbs | Fill the soothing end of the routine; generally well tolerated |
What makes K-beauty different from Western skincare?
K-beauty brands such as Beauty of Joseon typically combine traditional herbal ingredients, drawn from centuries-old medicine, with modern, lab-tested actives such as niacinamide and alpha-arbutin, rather than relying purely on synthetic formulations. The approach also tends to favour layering lighter, hydrating textures in sequence rather than a small number of richer products, which is where the well-known multi-step Korean routine comes from.
Building a simple routine around hanbang skincare
- Cleanse: a gentle cleanser suited to your skin type, removing the day’s build-up without stripping the skin barrier.
- Essence or toner: a lightweight, hydrating step, often where ginseng-based formulas sit, applied immediately after cleansing.
- Serum: a more targeted, concentrated step, commonly where brightening ingredients such as alpha-arbutin are introduced.
- Moisturiser: a richer cream to lock in hydration, often where rice bran and ceramide-based formulas are used.
- Sun protection: a daily SPF, non-negotiable in any serious skincare routine, K-beauty or otherwise.
Is hanbang skincare suitable for sensitive skin?
Generally, yes, since these formulas tend to avoid harsh alcohols and strong fragrance, and are built around soothing ingredients such as Centella asiatica. That said, natural does not automatically mean risk-free, and a 48-hour patch test on the jawline is a sensible precaution with any new product, hanbang or otherwise, since individual skin can react differently regardless of a formula’s general reputation.
Frequently asked questions
Is Beauty of Joseon suitable for oily or acne-prone skin?
Many of the brand’s core products, particularly lighter formulas containing niacinamide, are well suited to oily and combination skin, since the amount applied can be adjusted to avoid a heavy or occlusive feel. As with any skincare, individual results vary and a patch test is worth doing first.
Do I need to follow all ten steps of a Korean skincare routine?
No. The ten-step routine is a popular idea rather than a requirement, and a simplified version, cleanser, essence, serum, moisturiser and SPF, covers the same core principles without the time commitment of a longer routine.
How long does it take to see results from hanbang skincare?
Most skincare, regardless of origin, needs consistent use over four to eight weeks before meaningful changes become visible, since skin cell turnover takes time. Immediate glow from a single use is usually a texture or hydration effect rather than a longer-term change.
Our recommendation
If you are new to K-beauty, start with one or two products rather than overhauling your entire routine at once, so you can gauge how your skin responds. A ginseng-based essence paired with a rice bran moisturiser is a reasonable, well-tolerated starting point that reflects the brand’s core philosophy without requiring the full multi-step routine. Introduce stronger actives, such as higher-percentage exfoliants or retinol, separately and gradually, since layering too many new ingredients at once makes it hard to identify what is actually working.
This article discusses general ingredient research and is not medical advice. If you have a diagnosed skin condition, consult a dermatologist before changing your routine.